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[simon_jones]

The snout on Loco although fairly narrow low down becomes wide quite quickly due to the hull shape. This has the effect of slowing the boat down quickly in waves. If anything this was more of a cause for our many capsizes than a lack of bouyancy in having a dolphin striker to support the bow tube. On the other hand it also made for some very funny moments when the hull stopped and the rig and crew carried on at 14 knots.

[phil_kirk]

A built in snout allows the aft pole support to be further forward.  This in turn makes it easier to retract the pole past the mast for a given mast position and pole taper. 

Consider adding a carbon stay to the tube snout shown in the photo to provide vertical support to the jib tack. 

The snout fairing that you are suggesting  will take a bashing from the trolley etc so I would cover the front of it with 2 layers of carbon.  very little additional weight and you wont have to keep fairing it after every outing. 

Once you've finished building a boat you will want to sail it and not keep re-building it.

[john_hamilton]

any news rob

[Banshee Ambulance]

No news, sorry. Boat is on hold due to other things at the moment. Need to get a car and other imortant things first!

[daryl_wilkinson]

The snout on Loco although fairly narrow low down becomes wide quite quickly due to the hull shape. This has the effect of slowing the boat down quickly in waves. If anything this was more of a cause for our many capsizes than a lack of bouyancy in having a dolphin striker to support the bow tube. On the other hand it also made for some very funny moments when the hull stopped and the rig and crew carried on at 14 knots.

Yep.

Hull shape flare is a bit different to a built in snout in terms of increasing pitching, and as Phil says there are other benefits to a snout.

[Banshee Ambulance]

I have gone for the Loco style snout for a number of reasons but only because my build is a bit strange. Firstly and fore mostly, I had to cut the shell down to remove the flair and it made locating the foam and re building the topsides easier. Second, I am sort of continuing with Ians plan to comply with 12ft skiff rules. If I was going to build straight for a mould I would have stuck with the built in snout.

[Banshee Ambulance]

I know it may seem that I have lost interest in taking this project to the start line. Fear not, new job, home and lack of transport has put the beast on hold. I now have a driving licence and have been promised workshop space so things are looking up. Thunderbids might be 'are go' in the near future!

[Banshee Ambulance]

Had a look at the boat over the weekend when I was back at my parents It seems there is the odd bubble between the foam and the lamiate, presumably due to not vac bagging. What do I do to get around this? I was thinking of cutting out the area with a scalpel and re laminating the affected area? Is that wise?

[ross_burkin]

I can't think of any other options. Be sure to align the fibres and give it an inch overlap.

[Phil Alderson]

Cutting around bubbles and re-laminating is a good idea.

If you have not done so already get a 50p peice and tap all over the hull to map any sections that have not stuck properly, you should be able to hear the difference. Use a marker pen and some masking tape to mark out all the patches.

[Born Slippy]

Have you found a workshop/garage/front room for the build?

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