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[Phil Alderson]

Middle pic shows how we did it on Atum.

Thanks for all the information....another thing to make!

There are some more instructions and pictures on the tech pages, of the site.

I tend to make the plates up from offcuts as I go along out of wet carbon and any excess resin from when I do bigger jobs.

Just need some peelply, plastic sheet clamps and couple of blocks of wood.

[Born Slippy]

presumably Amber Dragon

The first time I sailed Amber I removed both the hoist and ruturn block in a replica of Jim's photos. Although this was in 2009, so the inset blocks of wood had lasted a good few years. On THe Flying Tirfle, Born Slippy and Exultant we used the fronting plate method and I have not to date managed to remove any fittgings (despite mutlipe attempts).

[phil_kirk]

Doug ,

I used fronting plates on E-numbers.

It does allow you to make the boat and think about fittings  latter on.

This is very much down my street because i like to be able to see the thing i am attaching fitting too and all the bits that may get in the way of it.

I now have all the plates on that I think I need. 

I have added some supports of 50mm high for the T-foil cleats which will sit between helm and crew position. Again these were put on once I had the kick bars in position allowing me to mount the cleat at the correct height.

[daryl_wilkinson]

Thinking about ordering some sails.  I was wondering about which manufacturers are working with the class and therefore know what works.  I see a lot of boats with Hyde's - is there a contact there that I can talk to?

(I am still in the market for a set of second hand sails as training and backup!)

Doug

Unless you are going to take an exact GT60 set of Cherub sails Hyde have told me they aren't making any more Cherub sails.

If you look at the Second hand list you'll see I have some Hyde sails for sale, I might be tempted to sell one of the mains as well.

I guess you are closer to NZ than most of us so I'd talk to Ken Fyfe.

Although I am talking to Dick Batt at the moment about sails, but he is South Korea for 10 days so I can't give you any more info on that till nearer December.

[ross_burkin]

Daryl, He's back on the 15th. My boat is at his workshop waiting for him.

He sounds keen as mustard whenever I speak to him and his website has some encouraging promises*, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating!

*quotes to come later

[daryl_wilkinson]

I have quotes.

[doug1720]

I have been working for last couple of days on getting the foam on and now have started the fairing and filling process.  To give me  abreak from the hull I am making the daggerboard....almost done.

Pic attached.

Doug

[Born Slippy]

That is rocking along. Did you vac the foam on or is that plastic saving "dog hair"?

[phil_kirk]

Doug,

i have a CD of pictures and layups ready to post to you.  i regrett that some bits aren't well documented so feel free to ask more questions and i'll do my best.

I don't know how long things take but expect you should have it in a few days.

The hull looks good.

Andy P. did a great job on our shells such that we didn't have to use a lot of filler. The main issue was fairing in the overlaps between cloths so the fewer overlaps you have with the final layer the better.

[Phil Alderson]

Looks to be coming along realy well.

When you are fairing the foam, before the cloth goes on dents are OK (can be filled later) bumps are not (you end up sanding of the carbon)

[doug1720]

That is rocking along. Did you vac the foam on or is that plastic saving "dog hair"?

Just got the dog....she is a great help.  Used vacuum pump.... seemed to work OK.

[doug1720]

Looks to be coming along realy well.

When you are fairing the foam, before the cloth goes on dents are OK (can be filled later) bumps are not (you end up sanding of the carbon)

Thanks for the advice.  Fairing the foam now and hope to move to outer shell tomorrow!

[doug1720]

Doug,

i have a CD of pictures and layups ready to post to you.  i regrett that some bits aren't well documented so feel free to ask more questions and i'll do my best.

Andy P. did a great job on our shells such that we didn't have to use a lot of filler. The main issue was fairing in the overlaps between cloths so the fewer overlaps you have with the final layer the better.

Thanks for sending the CD.  I am getting the uni for the mast, etc brought out to me on Monday and so can start on the racks in the next few weeks, etc for practice before the mast.

In terms of the outer shell I am really going to take my time so that filling etc afterwards will be at a minimum.  Anyway that is the plan!

Doug

[phil_kirk]

I thought the other day that where you are expecting to overlap cloths on the outer layer of the hull shell you could just sand a little more foam away.  This way you only have to build up localy near the overlap if you happen to have sanded off too much.  If the overlaps stand slightly proud you end up ffilling everywhere else to fair in these high points.

[Phil Alderson]

I thought the other day that where you are expecting to overlap cloths on the outer layer of the hull shell you could just sand a little more foam away.  This way you only have to build up localy near the overlap if you happen to have sanded off too much.  If the overlaps stand slightly proud you end up ffilling everywhere else to fair in these high points.

I have thought that also, the big problem I can see is aligning the cloth with the dent, things seem to stretch when wet out.

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